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  • Solar panel installer questions

    Posted by Fran Scott on January 15, 2026 at 9:43 am

    Solar panel installer questions.

    I’m about to have my new roof slated and 10 in roof GSE trays installed in single row portrait orientation, but I have a few installation questions I’d like to understand.

    The slates are quite brittle and the roofer would like the company to fit the trays and panels first, and then he will slate upto and around them, he says this is how it was done on some other roofs.

    The installer likes the roof to be slated up to the underside of the trays before the trays go down, then they use a lead replacement flash band that goes under the tray and over the slates stuck down (not the cheap corrugated type)

    1. Does the tray need to overlap the slates below, or is it screwed down tight to the batten and only the flash band over laps the slate?

    2. Is lead flashing better than the flash band for longevity of the roof and weather. It’s 35 pitch and South facing.

    3. If I use lead, do I need it for above and below the trays?

    4. What size lead would be required, 390 or 450mm for 500 x 250 slates with 200/210mm showing?

    Martin Lund replied 3 months ago 6 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • George Anderson

    Member
    January 15, 2026 at 9:44 am

    1. Can be done both ways

    2. Lead is best – gse stuff is rank

    3. Below, and some small strips for the raised sections at the top

    4. 390

    5. These questions are all better for your installer

    • Fran Scott

      Member
      January 15, 2026 at 9:45 am

      No.5 reply, I’ve had to ask because people do it different ways and unfortunately some do it well and others don’t.

      The sales rep has answered some questions but not the installer, they said that the trays rest onto the slates below, but the roofer said he’s never done it this way on the new builds he’s slated, and the trays were always fit them down to the lead and battens then panels in then slated around them last.

      I was just trying to ensure lead would still give the same weather protection because I like to fit products that last a long time and pose fewer issues. A new slate roof done properly should last 50+ years with copper nails and mill grade lead, but i see the solar as a weak point in the roof so aiming to use decent stuff where its affordable.

    • George Anderson

      Member
      January 15, 2026 at 9:46 am

      the black / grey grit Ubiflex is also a good choice for top and bottom flashing.

      On new builds we would usually just fit the flashing and roofer can tile under then fix using hi-tack.

      But other methods are valid.

  • Henry Smith

    Member
    January 15, 2026 at 9:47 am

    Have mine done with the corrugated strip(black) dame as the trays and gutters, mind that my trays end up on the edge of the roof to use the most of the roof surface as possible.

  • Ivy Branigan

    Member
    January 15, 2026 at 9:47 am

    It’s also possible to remove the first tile row and just use the trays, but you may want to check your installer does this correctly.

  • James Hall

    Member
    January 15, 2026 at 9:48 am

    1** Slate up to the underside first .

    This means the lead /flashing doesn’t have to be left bent up to fit the slates if installing the trays first

    2** fit the gse trays

    3** slate around it .

    That’s the best way

    390mm minimum flashing .that will give at least 6″lap above and below .

    I use deks .its nice, tough and sticks like buggery .lead can blow up and rattle but is a fit for life solution if done correctly and correct lengths used .cheap flashing isnt even worth talking about .

    • Fran Scott

      Member
      January 15, 2026 at 9:49 am

      does the bottom flashing overlap the slates but then lap under the bottom of the tray?

      Does the bottom of the tray rest on the top of the slate with the flashing sandwiched between?

      Thats what the installer says and the roofer says the tray doesnt rest on the slates below, its tight to the batten.

      How much of the bottom deks is visible on the slates?

    • James Hall

      Member
      January 15, 2026 at 9:50 am

      sort of .the panel sits lower than the tray anyway and there will be a gap between the bottom of the tray to the slate .so 390mm gives just enough to mitigate this . But yes bottom of the tray shouldn’t be sat on a course of slates .it also makes the install non MCS compliant

    • Fran Scott

      Member
      January 15, 2026 at 9:50 am

      so bottom of the tray sits on the batten and if using lead flashing that goes under the tray and over the slate?

      390 is sure more than enough. 170mm over the slate would leave 220 under the tray inc an upstand

    • James Hall

      Member
      January 15, 2026 at 9:51 am

      150mm min out the bottom of the tray .

      Don’t put the tray onto the slates

      Tray sits on the lead that is supported by timber across the rafters.

      Roofer is correct

      Your drawing is correct except the tray lapping over the lead and slates ..Just the lead

      Two secs I’ll fire you gse instructions

  • Martin Lund

    Member
    January 15, 2026 at 10:06 am

    I’ve done a tile and a slate roof with gse frames. I have battened, flashed the bottom, framed, flashed around the sides and top and then tiled/slated up to the panels with a gap. To me it is the obvious sequence.

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